A GUIDE TO THE COMMISSION PROCESS
The process is very straightforward and I approach each commission individually, working with you to ensure the end result meets with your expectations. I'm very happy to answer your questions with no obligation, so please get in touch.
DELIVERY
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REFERENCE PHOTOS
The general rule is 'the better the photo, the better the portrait'. At least one sharp, high resolution image is key and I like to see more if possible to gain a faithful impression of appearance and personality. Take new pictures specifically for the portrait if possible. You may already have a favourite photo of your child or pet - I'm very happy to look at any photos you have and will let you know from the outset if they can't be used.​​ If you live locally, I may suggest taking photographs myself, even if these are only used alongside a favourite of yours. It's an added bonus (but not essential) if I can meet the child or pet as it gives me some insight into their personality.
Scroll down for tips on taking or choosing a great reference photo. If you are interested in commissioning a wildlife drawing, I can source references for these.
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SIZE
​Once I have your photos we can select the best image to use and the composition/size of the portrait you prefer. I typically work on paper 10"x12", 11"x14", 12"x14" but larger sizes and square sizes are also available. 10"x12" or 11"x14" are ideal for a 3/4 pose of a single child or dog, also known as a 'head and shoulders' portrait. Smaller sizes, eg 6"x6" or 8"x8" are feasible for birds or small wildlife. Prices are determined by size and the number of subjects.​ Please get in touch for your individual quote.
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WORK BEGINS!
​When the details have been finalised I'll give you an estimated completion date. Portraits are usually completed in 2 to 3 weeks and I can send you a progress image if you would like to see one. When finished, I'll send you a digital proof for your approval.
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For UK delivery of commissioned work, I use Royal Mail Next Day Special Delivery, a tracked and signed-for service. If you need another service please ask. International orders are sent via secure service, allow 3-7 days. More on delivery here.​
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A good photograph is key to a successful portrait
To create a highly detailed portrait I need a sharp digital image to work from. I will enlarge and print the image and may also reference it on an ipad, zooming in to look closely at small areas, so high resolution is essential! ​ As a general rule, if you zoom in on your photo and the details appear pixelated or blurred, it will not have the clarity needed.
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The better the photo the better the portrait!​
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Capturing a reference photograph
NATURAL LIGHT ​
Photos taken in natural light get the best results, preferably taken outside on a light, cloudy day. Avoid direct sunlight as this can cast hard shadows and make your subject squint. Artificial lighting or flash can change natural colours and add unwanted shadows. If you choose to take your photos indoors, position your subject in front of a window.​​​​​
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APPEARANCE & POSE​
It's important to capture the natural personality and appearance of your pet or family member through their position or facial expression. Consider different poses - for example, you may wish a child to simply look at the camera smiling; or prefer them to be looking up, down, or away in a more pensive pose; or head resting in their hands. Although a smiling face is lovely, a wide open mouth and lots of teeth doesn't translate well in a drawing!
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PERSPECTIVE
Photos are best taken at your pet or child's height, rather than from above or below, as this can destort the view. However, that said, a higher angle can work well for a less traditional portrait depending on how you wish them to be captured on paper. It's usually better if the subject is neither directly face on nor directly side on to the camera, as they can look a bit flat.
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CLARITY & COMPOSITION​
It's especially important that I can reference all of the subject's features clearly. Ensure all aspects of the face are in focus and that eye shape and colour are clearly visible. A very clear view of the eyes and around the eyes is essential. Aim to get a good close-up, ensuring tops of heads etc are within the frame. A popular choice is a 3/4 pose, also known as 'head and shoulders' pose and for this you don't need to include any more than the upper body in your photo.​​ Check the background to make sure your subject stands out against it.​​​ Remove hats, hairbands, jewellery or pet collars if you prefer them not to be included but feel free to leave them in place otherwise.
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TECHNIQUE​
Having given thought to composition, tone and colours, I create a light line drawing, placing key features and hair/fur structure. Then I work on a small area at a time, often beginning with the eyes, as I find this instantly brings the subject to life. Using a layering technique, I put graphite or colour down, using light pressure to mark up lights and darks. When the first layers are down I add detail, building up graphite tone or colour many times over, referencing the subject's photograph closely throughout. When creating fine fur, I might use the extraction technique, pulling out colour from the page with a pen cutter or fine eraser. Coloured pencil work is a lengthy process, a small area can take 2 hours or more to complete.
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All the materials I use are professional grade and acid-free. I favour Faber-Castell graphite pencils, Faber-Castell Polychromos, Caran d'Ache Luminance and Pablo coloured pencils. These brands have highly concentrated lightfast pigments to guarantee your portrait is preserved for many years to come. I use a range of high quality papers such as Legion Stonehenge, Bristol, Clairefontaine pastelmat and Grafix drafting film.
MATERIALS
FRAMING
There are several points to consider when framing your artwork, whether it is an original drawing or a print. A frame not only provides essential protection but, if done correctly, will also compliment the artwork.
Original pencil drawings are delicate, so choose conservation quality materials such as acid-free mounts and backing to protect both the drawing and paper from deterioration, due to environmental factors. A mount gives an elegant finish and you may wish to consider a double mount which are particularly well suited to compliment detailed drawings. The mount helps focus the eye on the drawing by setting it apart from the frame, and prevents the drawing from coming into contact with the glass, which could cause moisture to be absorbed into the paper, resulting in mould and discolouration.
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It is important to ensure the glazing is UV deflective, which prevents the drawing from fading due to exposure to UV light. I also highly recommend choosing a low-reflective glass such as Tru Vue UltraVue which will allow you to view your artwork to best effect.
Using these high quality materials will provide maximum protection from adverse conditions. However it's best to avoid hanging your artwork in direct sunlight, above a source of heat or in a high moisture environment such as a bathroom.
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If you are buying one of my original works or prints, you may be interested in my bespoke framing service, available at a very competitive price to my customers. I have a wide range of mouldings and mounts and can send you mock-up visuals to help you choose. Alternatively, your local high-street framer will also have a wide range of mouldings and mounts to choose from. I recommend requesting Level 2 framing for original artwork; and if framing a print, consider Level 3 or above. Standard mounts often found on the shelf in a department store are generally Level 4 and do not offer sufficient long-term protection for either original artwork or prints.
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For more information go to the Fine Art Trade Guild https://www.fineart.co.uk/level_2-framing.aspx
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Examples of my Custom-Framed Works
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